Crochet Bra Pattern

»Comfy Bra/Bralette«

I Used: 4mm Hook w/ Caron Cakes Cinnamon Swirl

Key:

Ch- Chain

SC- Single Crochet

DC- Double Crochet (US)

DEC(SC)- Single Crochet Decrease

FLO- Front Loop Only

BLO- Back Loop Only

SLST- Slip Stitch

Ribbing: 

Round 1: Ch 12. DC in 3^rd Ch from hook. DC to end. Ch 2 and turn.

Round 2: BLO-DC till 1 stitch left. DC in last stitch. Ch 2 and turn.

Repeat Round 2 until the Ribbing fits around your ribcage.  You want the ribbing to fit comfortably, but with some tension. If you make the ribbing too big it won't conform to your body and will not fit properly.

Round 3: Fold the Ribbing in half and Whip Stitch in FLO to close the band.

Round 4: Turn the ribbing inside out. Ch 1. SC around the band. Evenly Space the SC stitches. Try to put one for each row of the ribbing. Make sure the number of SC is a multiple of 4.

Round 5: SLST to the first Ch 1. Ch 1 and turn. SC to the end.

Repeat #5 until the body is your desired height. Tie Off

Straps:

Placement:  

1)   Take your total number for SC Stitches from Round 5 above. Divide that number by 2; This is the Middle of your top. Count down your last row to this # stitch and mark.

2)   Decide what size gap you want between the straps (cleavage), I did 7 stitches (make sure it’s an Odd #).  From your middle marker: count out your gap and mark on both sides. This will be where the strap begins/ends.

EXAMPLE: If you did 7 for your gap: Count 3 stitches from the middle stitch marker

on both sides and mark each.

3)   Now take the number you got from #1 (middle stitch number) and subtract the # of stitches you chose for your gap (7). This number will be the total number of stitches for your straps.

4)   Take that number and divide it in half.  This is the width of each Strap; Count this number of stitches away from your strap begin/end marker and stitch mark. Do this on both sides.

Begin Straps:

Wrap the new yarn around the 1^st marked stitch and make a slip knot through that stitch (or attach the yarn however you’d like). Your 1^st stitch will be in that same stitch.

Round 1: 1 DEC(SC). SC until there are 4 stitches left. 2 DEC(SC).  Ch 1 and turn.

Round 2: 1 DEC(SC). SC till end. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 3: 1 DEC(SC). SC till 2. 1 DEC (SC). Ch 1 and turn.

Round 4: 1 DEC(SC). SC till end. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 5: 1 DEC(SC). SC till 2. 1 DEC (SC). Ch 1 and turn.

Round 6: 1 DEC(SC). SC till end. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 7: 1 DEC(SC). SC till 2. 1 DEC (SC). Ch 1 and turn.

Round 8: 1 DEC(SC). SC till end. Ch 1 and turn.

Round 9: 1 DEC(SC). SC till 2. 1 DEC (SC). Ch 1 and turn.

Round 10: SC till end. Ch 1 and turn. Repeat this round until the strap is desired length.

*Track the number of rows you do, so you can do the same number on the other strap*

Second Strap:

Turn the Shirt inside-out and Repeat Round 1-10 for the other strap.

You turn the shirt inside out because the straps are mirrored. If you begin the Second Strap on the same side, the rounds would be backwards.

For example: Round 1: 2 DEC(SC). SC till 2. 1 DEC(SC). Ch 1 and turn.

If you prefer to begin on the same side, you can just flip(mirror) the rounds instead.

 Attach the Straps to the Back of the top with a FLO Whip Stitch.

As far as placement goes for the back of the straps:

Try your top on and see where you want them to attach.  Placement affects the way the front of the top looks so it’s different for everyone. You can make the top more fitted by closing the gap between straps in the back or the opposite (less fitted bigger gap). Otherwise, you can just count out your stitches like you did for the front strap placement and make them even.